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The Art of Custom Eyes
 
The Art of Custom Eyes
by Peter Lamas, Lamas Beauty Founder
 

 

As poets have said, eyes are the window to the soul. The right eye makeup can add to the beauty of your eyes when you know how to accent the positive and minimize any negatives.
                      --Peter Lamas
 

 
  

 

Choosing Your Eye Colors -- Ask Your Closet!

Colors fall into 3 categories - warm, cool and neutral. What makeup colors look best on you is primarily determined by your skintone and what you're wearing today. Eye and haircolor come second. Your clothes closet is a great guide. If you wear warm, earth-toned colors like olive green, brown, terracotta, and camel, warm tones are probably your best bets for eye color, too. If most of your clothes are in cool tones of blue, purple, lavender and dark green, cool colors will look great on your eyes.

Of course, you'll never go wrong with classic neutrals -- greys, ivories, taupes and browns. These shades flatter everyone. They're also natural choices for someone who's wardrobe is all black, white, or beige.


It's So Simple

                    2 eyeshadows + eyeliner = custom eyes!

For basic eye design, I believe all you need are one eyeshadow to accent, one to define, and an eyeliner pencil. (In the custom eye designs below, I've added a highlighter as an extra option -- which you can skip or not - plus mascara and brow pencil).

To accent and define, I recommend matte powder eyecolors - not frosted.

3 Easy Steps to Custom-Eye Designs for Every Eye Shape

The 3 steps are:

  1. Lining
  2. Accenting (with light shades)
  3. Defining (with deep shades)

The 3 tools you'll need are:

  1. 1 light-toned powder eyeshadow
  2. 1 deep-toned powder eyeshadow (contrasting or complementing your light shade)
  3. 1 eyeliner pencil -- brown, charcoal or navy. Black works best for brunettes or exotic faces.

Additionally, you'll want to have:

Mascara
Light frosted Highlighter eyeshadow (optional)
Eyebrow Pencil that matches or is a shade darker than your own brows

Map of the Eye -- Where Your Colours Go

Areas: Brow bone, Crease, Inner corner, Arch, Lid, Outer corner

The Art of Custom Eyes

First, the theory -- then we practice! Know the Theory of Light and you've mastered one of the most important aspects of makeup:

  • LIGHT tones bring features forward and out.
  • DARK tones bring features in and minimize them.

Ready to practice? Find your eye shape below and apply the techniques illustrated to maximize the beauty of your special eyes -- and minimize their limitations. Practice a few times until perfect and -- I promise -- you won't believe your eyes! [an error occurred while processing this directive]

Even Eyes


Even Eyes...are well-proportioned and evenly spaced, one eye's-width apart.

Your goal: Emphasize your eyes' balance and shape.

Line: Line upper and lower lid evenly. Gradually widen the line at the outer corners.

Accent: Brush light color evenly over the entire lid, lashes to browbone.

Define: Stroke a smooth ribbon of your deep color along and slightly above the natural crease of the lid, to the outer corner of each eye. Blend edges lightly.

For An Extra Touch:

Highlight: Brush a little highlighter color along the browbone to accent.

Brows & Lashes: Extend the length of brows or heighten the arch, if needed to maintain the balanced effect. Apply mascara evenly on top and bottom lashes.

Close-Set Eyes

Close-Set Eyes ...are less than one eye-length apart.

Your Goal: Make your eyes look further apart by emphasizing the outer edges of the eye.

Line: Line the outer half of your lids, top and bottom, keeping color most intense at the far corners of the eyes. The bottom line can even be extended just beyond the eye if you like.

Accent: Brush your light shade from the inner corner to middle of lid, from lashes to browline.

Define: Shading from lashes to browbone, stroke your deep shade from the outer third of the lid to extend just beyond the eye's edge.

For An Extra Touch:

Highlight: Brush a little highlighter on the browbone to accent.

Brows & Lashes: Extend the length of brows outward creating the illusion of eyes further apart. Apply mascara on top and bottom lashes, with a few extra coats on the outer corners, upper and lower.

Continued on page 2 --->

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